Escape To The Cotswolds — Kate Woodcock

As someone who has spent the last 10 years in the hospitality industry - and is married to an hotelier - I will never not love hotels. Escapist, romantic, luxurious, the notion of having someone take care of your every need as an adult is, to me, heaven.

However, as someone who travels frequently with my Mother, the luxury of king size beds and open plan bathrooms can sometimes be wasted on us. Which is where Airbnb comes in. Separate bedrooms to suit our different sleep patterns and the ability to make tea at any time of day, or night. Plus, when travelling with family, never underestimate the importance of a selection of DVDs and a puzzle.

We began in Egypt, getting lost in the Cairo museum, sipping sundowners gazing over the pyramids, before taking a steamer up the Nile with all the luxury and grace of Hercule Poirot.

We have ambled amongst cacti at the Saint Laurent Gardens in Marrakech, ridden a rickety goods lift to take in views over a freezing cold Bologna and discovered the greatest-ever pizza, under the gazes of disgruntled locals on the shores of Lake Garda.

The Okavango Delta and Kalahari were our biggest adventure, and the most unforgettable, - as we were forced to play scrabble into the early hours, whilst an inquisitive elephant stood between us and our tent, and where the wonderful lodge manager enjoyed telling me over dinner that HP Sauce is named after the Houses of Parliament - laughing his hearty Batswana laugh at my not knowing this when, as he pointed out, it is illustrated on the bottle!

After my mother fell mildly ill in Sri Lanka, I now find the responsibility of taking her to far-flung destinations a bit too anxiety-inducing. Nevertheless, I always remind myself that she gave me everything for the first 20 years of my life, and so now I endeavour to return the favour - hence the trips continue, albeit in closer proximity.

Where we stayed: With its low-beamed interiors, log burner, bath tub, and rose-patterned quilts, South View Cottage in Stow-on-the-Wold was as inviting and deliciously cosy a cottage as we could have wished for. Sleeping up to five guests in two bedrooms, it is peaceful whilst being wonderfully located with Stow high street just a short walk through the gate at the foot of the garden.

What we ate: I like to take a pre-made dinner and wine for the first night of any weekend away - preferably something from our lovely local deli - because remembering to pack olive oil and garlic alongside jumpers and walking boots immediately starts detracting from the ‘holiday’ vibe. Then you just sling it in the oven and open the wine on arrival - I promise you’ll never regret this tip.

Having passed the Old Butchers on our morning amble, and hearing from several locals it was not to be missed, we opted to eat here on our second night ‘out’. Seated in the window of this wonderful former butchers shop, over Lobster Thermidor and a good Puligny, we chatted easily with the locals, staying late into the evening before eventually tottering the 200 metres home. It was an important reminder for me, seeing her chatting away with the locals and them laughing at her jokes, that my Mother is not just the woman who walks unbelievably slowly and thinks the sky has fallen in when a radiator goes on the blink.

Coach House Coffee overlooks the main square and offers the best people-watching spot in town. It serves RAVE coffee, hand-roasted down the road in Cirencester, and the most delicious raw cocoa hot chocolate. Enjoy with a slice of spiced tea loaf baked by the owner, Emily’s mum, or if you’re in a rush they offer everything to go, in fully-compostable packaging. Lush.

Sheep on Sheep Street I brought along a Midsomer Murders boxset especially for this trip. Yes, I enjoy a YSL bag and an Erdem sample sale, and because I don’t like gin or tonic my aperitif is basically champagne, but my most guilty pleasure is my love of Midsomer Murders.

So yes, I could have been cool and checked-out the much-praised Lygon Arms, as recommended by the lovely Helena Lee at Harper’s Bazaar, instead I went down to the Sheep on Sheep Street - a great-looking pub with mullioned windows, to collect a couple of pizzas which we hugely enjoyed with a bottle of the Berry Bros. and Rudd prosecco - highly recommended by the way - and back-to-back viewing of Inspector Barnaby. It was bliss.

Love the windows of Sheep on Sheep Street

What we did: Staying centrally made it easy to explore the nooks and crannies of Stow on foot. I salivated over the beautiful tablescapes at Amanda Brooks’ beautiful store, Cutter Brooks. A former Director of Barney’s, New York, Amanda really knows her retail and this low-lit, enchanting store does not disappoint. Having stepped inside purely to admire the mix of vintage table linens and gleaming glassware {it’s not cheap!} I merrily came in with a pair of tailored Soeur green velvet trousers - on sale.

Delving into independent bookshops such as Jaffe & Neale was a gloriously tranquil experience, where they encourage lengthy browsing and pots of tea. I bought a copy of Nigel Slater’s Christmas Chronicles to see me through the chilly months and at Haynes Hanson & Clark wine rooms I discovered they also have a store near to us in Chelsea, which I shall doubtless find myself visiting for a reminder of Stow!

For stores that have fireplaces like this…

We drove down to the hugely picturesque village of Lower Slaughter - oft featured on postcards - where we visited the water mill, which is currently under renovation but still well worth the £1 per person entry fee - and the gift shop is fabulous, with local sheepskins, handcrafted soaps and endless prints and postcards of surrounding picturesque villages.

Stow and its neighbouring towns are stuffed with superb antique shops. Whilst having an excellent eye, my Mother rarely buys these days, but is forever eyeing-up price tags of items she owns to remind me of this. One poorly-kept {by me} local secret though is Station Mill Antiques, a short drive away towards Chipping Norton, but well worth it on a rainy afternoon for a selection of lovely one-off pieces.

What I loved: Clear skies each day helped our rambles be that extra bit lovely, and returning to the warmth of the cottage each and lighting the fire lost none of its appeal each afternoon. Also waking up to the sounds of starlings and views of frosted hedges from the cottage across to the nearby allotments really felt like being on a proper holiday.

For next time I would love to have made a rough map of picturesque villages to visit, as I know there are so many beautiful ones close to Stow. Bourton-on-the-water is definitely one for next time, as is a stomp to Daylesford for a massage and perusal of earthenware vases in their moss-scented conservatory.

At the Water Mill we were told not to miss Burford Garden Company, a bit of a destination store offering a visual feast of plants, home decor and furniture. As I am attempting not to buy anything new in January, we opted for a last walk instead, but if you go - and you absolutely should, tell me what to seek out!

And finally I learnt yesterday from the wonderful photographer @postcardsbyhannah on instagram that there is an amazing, ancient oak door to St Edward’s Church just off the square in Stow, that I will definitely be going back to visit someday soon.

And as for the mother-daughter travel, I highly recommend it for both you and them; just trust me on the puzzles.

Safe travels. x