Exploring The Islands Of Copenhagen

A visit to Denmark in February had the potential to be cold and more than a little bleak, but in a city where you can find coffee and homemade snegle {traditional Scandinavian pastries} on every corner, I would argue it is one of the best times to go.

Arriving into the main airport, smelling the cinnamon, and taking the clean, easy train directly into town, the city was destined for my 'when are we going again?' list.

So here are some suggestions to maximise your hygge in the nation's capital...

Eating and drinking

You have most likely seen photographs of Nyhaven {New Haven}, with its famous line of coloured buildings lining the quayside. Whilst the harbour is worth a wander along and makes a great insta-snap, it is essentially quite touristy, so best head through one of the backstreets to find some of the smaller eateries and bars - which Copenhagen does exceptionally well.

The stylish but friendly Ved Stranden {at 1061 Kobenhaven K} is the best of these: Be sure to go early, as by 7 o'clock it is standing room only with the locals all huddled and hyggelig at the back. And if you are lucky enough to visit on a Monday, I am told they do sharing meals of their favourite dishes for 100 kr per head {we missed this, so please tell me if you go!}.

Another good restaurant and wine bar is Maven, situated in an old church {at Nikolaj Plads 10, 1067 København K}. Once home to the city’s butchers, this down to earth eatery serves good wines and beer alongside elegantly done classic dishes, that neatly contrast with the historic setting. 

I know it’s each to their own yadda yadda, but if you visit Copenhagen and don’t go to Papirøen {Paper Island if you need to ask a local} you should probably question your life choices. This bustling and achingly-cool food market is on Another Level {From The Heart, it's the Bomb Diggy - Any 90s pop fans? Just me?}.

Anyway, it's pretty much an aircraft hanger surrounded by canals, filled with European hipsters yelling and grinning whilst they dish up really very good street food. Get a buttery croque monsieur with duck fat chips, or the hot dogs with mustard mayo and fresh, fried crunchy onion. The brûlée donuts - blow-torched to your liking - are a must-eat, preferably washed down with chocolate milk. What? It’s cold!

Add in the all-day DJ set and glitter cow suspended from the rafters, well, what more could you really ask of a Saturday?

In the interest of full disclosure, it was after a dinner at Gammel Mønt 41 that the Scotsman asked me to marry him, so clearly we had A Good Time; but I am willing to bet we could have broken up at that table and still stayed for the cheese course. From the hand-written menu {now framed in the kitchen}, to the intimate supperclub feel, the neighbourhood restaurant succeeds in making guests feel a part of something traditional and very Copenhagen-y. 

The {seemingly only} waiter tells you - in a very direct Danish manner - what you should eat - in our case a superb, cockle-warming bouillabaisse, followed by turbot encrusted in a thick, buttery pastry complete with scales dexterously carved in, after which a rich chocolate plate to share rounded things off nicely.

Gammel Mont is small, so be sure to book and ask to be seated downstairs, as this is where Owner/Chef Claus does the cooking and you'll have a better view of the Burgundy-heavy wine rack.

With the freshest ingredients served in informal kitchen-style surroundings, Gl. Mønt sums up Danish food, and had me well on my way to finding my hygge.

Exploring

The free to access Ny Carlsberg Glyptoteket art museum boasts a collection of over 10,000 works of art, including Greek sculpture, Rodin's Kiss and extensive 19th Century Danish and French paintings. 

Known as the Winter Garden, the museum centres around a glass-domed palm court, which makes an excellent stop off for a pot of hot tea and slice of cake. 

October to April the city's famous Tivoli Gardens are sadly closed, but definitely visit these if you get the chance {opening dates here} and I hear the restaurant Groften is really good, so please tell me if you go! 

In lieu of Tivoli, we headed for the city's Botanical Gardens {also free to access} which offered actual delight in the -4 C temperatures, thanks to the Victorian hot houses. Ascending the original wrought-iron staircases inside, visitors can peer down through the tropical canopy from the 30ft high walkways - perfect for thawing out the extremities!

Shops

With the UK's newfound love of Danish designers where better to get ahead of the game and stock up on some pieces from Ganni, Baum und Pferdgarten and By Malene Birger that you won't see back home. There are a plethora of really good independent stores, but if you are limited on time head to the neatly Nordic department store Illums Bolighus on Strøget for stylish homewares and cult Danish items.

An iconic Kay Bojesen monkey toy and Arne Jacobsen alphabet cups {pencil pots for me} would be my recommendations if on limited luggage. Otherwise you really should just buy everything. 

Have fun! {and maybe bring me a snegle} x

Tips

I beg you to look at the weather forecast before making your packing list. When I say cold, I mean COLD.

Pronunciation is never going to be easy, but here are the ones I found most important

'Hey' is Danish 'Hi'

Snegle is pronounced S-Nile-uh

Hygge is pronounced Hoo-gah